Required fields are marked *, “We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, and affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.”. But make sure you thoroughly iron the seam allowance, so the fold is well pressed before you sew it in place. They’re also a great way to add top-stitching detail to a hand sewn garment too. As well as running her own small sustainable fashion brand, Eve has more than 25 years experience sewing and making clothes for herself and family members. If you've never sewn a flat felled seam, grab some scraps of fabric and practice before attempting it on your intended item. So, as I mentioned further up, as run and fell seam is the version of a flat felled seam, that is sewn with the right sides of the fabric together. Work your way down the length of the felled seam, fold and pinning as you go. 4. In addition to clothing, flat felled seams are often found on accessories such as tote bags as well as many … A mock flat felled seam is a faster and less bulkier version of the flat-felled seam. Press the seam with an iron and press cloth if needed. If sewing a shirt sleeve to the shift bodice, you will want the shirt bodice seam allowance to be the seam allowance that is trimmed down. Flat Felled Seam: The Easy Way - Christopher Nejman - YouTube Remove the pins as you draw near, and sew slow and steady for a neat straight line. I just wanted to make use of this opportunity to thank you for taking time to produce this tutorial, everything you have covered is exactly what I need as a beginner I will be going through your lessons everyday because I am learning so much and the fact that you are using pictures in your lessons makes it so easy to follow especially when you use words like (Facing,Bodice,gussets, etc) that I am not familiar. This stitch line will be visible on the right side of the garment, so we need to stitch it as neatly as possible. As run and fell seams are used on shirts, I would recommend using a tailors ham to press any curved seams so that there is minimal distortion and puckering. Press the larger seam allowance in half, turning under the raw edge so it just about meets the originally sewn seam. It is the seam used when sewing tailored shirts. Flat felled seams. Secure in place with pins – it is best to do this from the right side! Sew from the right side of the fabric, so that the stitch line is using the spool thread and not the bobbin thread. Next, press the turned-under seam allowance flat. Debbie is an award-winning seamstress and tailor who wrote sewing content for over 18 years for The Spruce Crafts. Flat felled seams are very strong and durable, which is why they're often used on sturdy fabric, such as denim. Slow with you chosen seam allowance amount, nice and steady. It makes it a little easier for me to trim the right seam allowance! You can press in place and then secure in place with your pins. Finally, press the seam. The plan is to edge stitch nice and straight along the edge of the folded line. Open the seam, and press both seam allowance sections to your side of choice. You can press the fold in place and pin, or go straight for the pins as you fold. Fold the top seam allowance amount under the bottom seam allowance amount, ‘enclosing’ it. This is because we will be trimming away some of the seam allowance when completing this seam finishing technique! An open seam is one where the seam allowance is visible, an enclosed seam is a seam were the seam allowance is enclosed, and so less likely to fray and unravel. This is the one that will be sitting on top of the main fabric, not the top one which we would see when looking at our fabric with the right side up! Find the front and back of the item. Now you’re ready to sew the second stitch-line. Here’s that again, with pictures this time, so that you can follow along with the sewing tutorial! Did I mention that flat felled seams are strong? 3. These amounts are marked with notches, and help the sample machinist to line up the fabric pieces in the correct places. How do your felled seams look? If you’ve ever looked REALLY closely at denim wear (that has real and not mock felled seams) and a well made tailored shirt you’ll have notice that both have enclosed seams. 2. 8. A flat-felled seam is one where the two fabric edges are wrapped around each other such that each raw edge is encased in a fold of the other. You can see from the photo above that my seam allowance is 15 mm, from the needle to the edge of the fabric. As always, it is essential to press your seams is you want a beautiful clean finish. If you plan to not use pins, you should use an iron to press the fold. Now that you have trimmed away the excess fabric, lets fold the top seam allowance amount over and under the trimmed section. Place the fabric pieces under the sewing machine foot, and sew with your chosen seam allowance. thank you so much for your efforts really what you put together is helping me a lot. Closed seams are used to keep the raw edges of fabric tucked away to prevent fraying, and to keep things tidy. Get DIY project ideas and easy-to-follow crafts to help you spruce up your space. So, as my seam allowance was 15 mm, I cut the lower piece to be 7 mm wide, taking off 8 mm. Note: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you make a purchase at no further cost to you. This will cause the wider seam allowance to enclose the trimmed seam allowance.